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Mt. Titlis (2) – 鐵力士峰 (中集)
why she had to go I don’t know, she wouldn’t say…
忍着痛,我趕快站起來說︰「哈,小事小事。」實情是左脾側瘀了一塊,右脾的前方被自己的相機撞瘀又一塊,那是我後來幾天要受的痛楚,姑且不多說。我們往 Ice Flyer 的纜車站走去。要前往 Glacier Park,在夏天只能用這個方法,Ice Flyer 名字改得太美麗,大家能感受到在冰上飛行嗎?如果慣坐雪山吊車的,大概不會很驚奇,不過,Ice Flyer 確實帶你在冰川上滑行而過,我望着腳下的冰川之隙,問 Peter,在夏天有行冰川的活動嗎?有的,不過必須有經驗的導遊帶領廿着。而冬季,一般都被白雪覆蓋着,積雪夠厚的話,高技巧的滑雪者可通過。
終於,我們到達 Glacier Park,遠處已聽見笑聲。我站在大家拿滑板及玩具的地方站了良久,對,我是在觀察什麼玩意跟什麼人在玩,出奇地,數目最多的是來自印度,他們應該是團體,都四五人一夥地玩得好開心。而且把其中一種可串連的 snake (暫稱蛇板),翻來翻去,正享受着四人一排衝下雪坡。我只是旁觀者也哈哈大笑,當中更有對男女玩蛇板,在下坡的最尾竟然不減慢,直衝上「U形」山坡的另一端,不小心「卡」在繩欄上,尷尬了一陣子,而全場都注視着,失笑着,忍笑着。這一幕,我覺得絕對是笑笑小電影題材。
I said something wrong now I long for yesterday…
我在 Glacier Park 也初嘗一種小滑板車下坡滋味,比想像中快,不過容易操作,未有失誤,貪玩的我若不是有太多活動要拍攝,應該不願離開這雪地樂園。此刻有點後悔,沒有堅持叫幾位朋友前來玩雪,不過,兩星期前的雪坡,狀態不太理想,因為今年瑞士的夏天實在太熱,山上的雪都融化得很利害,只是我有運氣,今天到訪前一晚,下過一場雪。我記得,不久前聽到一對港人夫婦說:這跟我們幾年前真有差別,以前山頂都鋪滿雪呀。
我也一直思考着這問題,環境,人類,與未來。
Yesterday, love was such an easy game to play
待續…
All about Mt. titlis (1) – 幾度—鐵力士山(上集)
Yesterday, all my trouble seemed so far away…
今日,也仿如昨日。在剛過去的八月份,竟然幸運地在一個月之內,兩度登上鐵力士山。首次是跟朋友組織的十一天自駕遊,在八月中的某天我們的汽車駛入琉森,停泊了一晚,為的是第二朝登山。登山的目的,也顯然是為朋友首次歐遊之旅,一觀雪山之壯麗。我知道我自己很幸運,在此以前我已來過一次鐵力士,但何年何月也難以翻查,不過我對鐵力士鋒的印象,其實不及少女峰深刻。無論如何,登雪山是我所為友人安排之一站,我們已到過法國酒莊,經歴了南法的海岸線,入過藝術之都佛羉倫斯,去過米蘭站。最後我挑選鐵力士,主要是它是琉森湖旁邊一個最多元化的雪山,雖然,琉森人說,皮拉圖才是他們的山,不過鐵士力的距離也不太遠,只不過 30 – 45 分鐘的火車,而且,皮拉圖沒有太多元化的活動,也沒有親「雪」的機會。無論如何,鐵力士名氣已足夠大,而我再次踏足這片阿爾卑斯之山嶺。
Now it looks as though they’re here to stay. Oh I believe in yesterday.
我們四人隨纜車上到半山,在 Truebsee 湖邊流連了一會。再轉纜車登頂。天氣其實不冷,雖然我們都穿好了禦寒衣,總是覺得穿太多,太陽很烈,中午的溫度約 8 – 10 度左右吧?喝了一碗湯,吃了點薯條,就這麼愉快的,我們往山下的停車場去,行程正規,美滿。
Suddenly, I am not half to man I use to be,
半個月不夠,再度回來。是次因工作關係,採訪一些雪山上的活動,我在山腳跟鐵力士的代表 Peter 會面。我們討論話題是:能否拍攝一種叫 Devil Bike 的刺激活動。我們幾番商討後的結論是,先登頂到 Glacier Park (冰川樂園)拍攝,再到 Truebsee 拍攝 Devil Bike(魔鬼單車),最後一試 Trotti Bike (下山滑板單車)。我完全接受他的意見,其實我是個很愛大冒險運動的人,不過他也擔心我看來這般弱質(亞洲人女士看來就不做運動似的),大概都招架不住。
There’s a shadow hanging over me
我跟着他上山。如計劃一樣,先往 Glccier Park 去。兩星期前來過的我,幾乎有一種小聰明般的肯定,山上不會冷,結果呢…實在是意料之外的兩碼子事…Peter 告訴我,昨天下了一場雪,山上蓋白,如今大約 2 度左右吧…我不以為然的,怎知一踏出戶外就知差別有多大,2 度攝氏的雪山山頂,所感受到的是刺骨的冰冷,我明明到過不少雪山,今次真是被考到,而山路由砂石變成舖雪,而且在半融化之間,即是變成冰。一不留神,我就如大冬瓜滑倒地上。痛,是必然的,但我不願在 Peter 面前滑倒,倒是真的…我不願說我是個弱質而不做運動的亞洲女性!!!
Oh yesterday came suddenly…
待續….(for more information of Titlis and Switzerland, please check it out first:
http://www.myswitzerland.com/ and http://www.titlis.ch/en/titlis/titlis_info/summer_activities )
My first visit to N.Europe:Finland (北歐之旅︰芬蘭)
Although working as a travel reporter for a period of time, I have never been to any Northern European Countries. With cool weather and gorgeous natural environment, those destinations are like dream places for me. Thanks for the budget airline that brought me from England to Finland, I was so excited about the Summer weather in Finland and heard that “midnight sun” would appear too. They even had longer daylight than that in Aberdeen which I have visited a week before. I stayed just in the middle of the country. In the private room of a hostel, I was working in front of the window…I kept checking the time…well…11:30pm, still bright enough to read a book…12 midnight…oh…still bright enough to see the outline of the buildings?! I have never experienced a long day like that!! And it was so cool to have light breeze and warm sunlight.
Besides Helsinki, the capital of Finland, I visited two other towns called Turku and Tampere also. And my first impression about Finland was…sparse population and few cars on the road, which made it nice and comfortable to walk. Those cities are small and can be explored by foot. On the contrary, Helsinki is quite “touristic” compared with these two little towns. But you could still find some designer stores with outstanding and creative products. Even the market square is overcrowded everyday with the cruise ships’ passengers, I was happy to have my quick lunch there everyday.
This trip was full of joy and my last stop before Turku in Helsinki was an excursion to a sea fortress. It took just 15 minutes from the market square to the fortress by ferry and I stayed almost 3 – 4 hours on the island. What’s so special there? Nothing spectacular indeed. Sometimes you should not expect too much before you go. Then you might be surprised and even find the most beautiful destination in the trip. No task and no hurry, one can never be disappointed. Travel only, and truly, with your heart.
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以往一直是旅遊記者,卻從未有機會踏足北歐,今次終於夢想成真,多謝廉價航空,讓我找到容易的方法,把我由英國帶到芬蘭去。而芬蘭最令我著迷的是天然的風景及冷天氣,無錯,我是愛冰凍天氣的人,今次夏季到這邊,卻可體會超長的日光。在芬蘭較北的區域甚至出現「午夜太陽」,但我此行沒有往北走,只留在中部的地區。我住在青年旅舍的私人房,尚有點小空間,在窗前工作時我特別留意天氣及時間,已到十一時半,天未黑,光線仍足夠看書,十二時,我發現周遭的建築物仍充滿輪廓,日光仍在,真叫人著迷。我實在未試過感受這樣的日長時間,就算早前在蘇格蘭東北部的 Aberdeen,仍未至於芬蘭的日照般長。柔和光線及和暖的風,亦令我非常喜歡她。
此行除首都赫爾辛基外,我還到過兩個市鎮叫 Turku 及 Tampere。相比首都,小鎮的寧靜及人少車少,絕對值得用雙腳徒步漫遊。當然,赫爾辛基是另一種風情,旅客多集中在市集廣場,旅遊方式卻不同,我特別欣賞她的設計小店及設計品,而市集廣場也沒什麼不妥,就算都充滿了郵輪客也好,我仍很享受每天到市集攤檔,尋找快餐醫肚。
此行充滿探索性的快樂,而臨別赫爾辛基往 Turku 之前,我往一個海島城堡去。海城堡距市集廣場只是 15 分鐘的船程,處於一個離鳥之上。你問我,有什麼特別要登島看嗎?其實並沒有計劃看什麼。有時,當你無計劃,舒服的逛逛,會發現更動人的美麗。小島可以慢走,走畢全程都不過幾小時,沒有期待着什麼的感覺更有趣,隨意地,更加真實。
Mr Hauser between the storm and rainbow 暴風與彩虹下的屋先生
To be honest, I met many people in every single trip but I was not a very sociable gal. I would be happy to talk with the interviewees, besides I enjoyed the time being alone. But, I like this Mr. Hauser who is the owner of Hotel Belvedere Grindelwald. He was the 3rd generation of the founder of this hotel. He is really a enthusiastic man who would go to the station to pick up his guests. That was a very windy night he picked me up and dropped off his car outside the hotel and suddenly discovered that the chairs from the terrance were dangerously blew by the strong wind, he then tried to fix the chairs by himself. The next day the town was attacked by storm, all the train service to Juanfraujoch stopped, the hotel out of electricity and I was stuck in the hotel breakfast room, I saw Mr Hauser, his eyes were red. “Did you sleep well Mr. Hauser?” He said he didn’t sleep for whole night even it was sunday his family day, he still worked in his hotel office.
He was a nice man and did all the work from his own. Seems that he did have some staff in the hotel but he treated the hotel as his own house, can’t leave without taking care of it. He recommended me to take a walk to the hill side if felt too boring. But he did offer me to go with him to a waterfall in the afternoon. I appreciated so much for his kindly suggestion, I hoped he could take a rest.
Late day, finally, storm ran away, the rainbow came out with a clearly seven colors and good mood. I met Mr Hauser again and thanks for him. I saw many couples talked to him during my stay. I like this kind of family style hotel and quite sure that you will never SEE a owner work so hard in another 4 stars hotel. Anyway, the chance to experience this extreme weather is 4/365. It’s just usual and unusual. They said the strong wind is blew from Africa.
我在瑞士的 Grindelwald 遇上全年最大的風暴,根據 Mr.Hauser (屋先生)說,這是由非洲吹來的大風,每年只有四月下旬,無端在山谷刮起乾風,風裡夾雜着令人討厭的蒼蠅。屋先生是酒店的第三代傳人,他說約 10 年前才接手家族生意,酒店由祖父起經營。我認識的他充滿幹勁,記得他來車站接我,返回酒店當下,發現大風把平台的桌椅差點吹翻,他就立即跳下車,叫我先回房,他二話不說就自己跑到平台把椅子搬好。初時我覺得奇怪,為何他不叫服務生幫忙呢?翌日,酒店因大風吹倒電纜停電,火車停駛,我被迫而滯留。他兩眼通紅一臉倦容,原來整晚未曾休息,他太擔心酒店的事務了,就算星期日也沒有家庭樂,徹夜留守。我很佩服他,建議他盡快休息,但他仍然擔心我悶,建議下午可駕車帶我到附近看瀑布。
記得他說,這幾年生意難做,而瑞士人的薪金高企。作為老闆的他肯定要捱過這一段日子。每年 Grindelwald 有兩季最旺,冬與夏,但春季大部分的店舖都關門,一般於四月中旬至五月中旬休息一個月,連酒店都關門,餐廳更是寥寥可數。但屋先生的旅館並未關門,是他太勤力吧,但也因此我能夠在這看似不適合的季節,住在這山區。暴風雨後,帶來了彩虹,在山谷之間太美麗,所以,沒有風雨,那有彩虹與陽光呢?凡事都不會太差。
Bauhaus Dessau
If you are the one who learn design or architecture, I guess you must have interested in Bauhaus which their school is now in Dessau, Germany. Not far from Berlin, within 1.5 hours by train. Here the town is small, clear <—should be, as the concept of Bauhaus are something about simplification, conciseness. Btw, it comes to UNESCO and some of the former buildings remained and renovated in these few years. Right now, if you visit, there will be some Master houses and the school buildings you would actually have a look. They d0 organize some guided tours. Unfortunately, most are in German. I wish they would have english tour later on.
如果,你是讀建築或者設計,我估你會對包浩斯不陌生,他的一所校舍在德國 Dessau ,距柏林不遠,只 1.5 小時火車。此小鎮相當細,而且予人簡潔的感覺,或者也是包浩斯的概念之一,簡約、清楚、不花巧。而它已被列入聯合國世界遺產名錄上,主要參觀的是教學大樓及幾位 Bauhaus 大師級當時所設計的住所。在教學大樓有詢問處,設有些導賞團,只可惜大都是德語的。我期望下次,他們會開設些英語的團,畢竟,是包浩斯。
瓦努阿圖 Vanuatu
Recently, I heard that there is an advertising about migration to Vanuatu. Vanuatu, people start to raise the question and feeling like this is the only haven in planet maybe, the last Wonderland. I didn’t watch this advertising on TV and don’t know the details. But, few years ago, I have been to Vanuatu because this country/place have been won the award of the happiest planet. So I started to search some information and wanted to visit for this reason. And finally, I found a way: go by the cruise from Australia and they go south pacific line, I would actually stop there for half day!!!! I asked sponsor by this simple and rear reason, although some might think that I was just wasting time which will never seems interesting. But to be honest, a traveler should always feel exciting to all kind of destination.
Thanks for all helps, it did happen on 2007-8, can’t remember. But I am sure my photographer would never forget this trip. First few days in Australian Blue Mountain we went canyoning and I was Fucking hurt, she and I were never a swimmers but I did the crazy jump over the waterfall about 25 meters….Finally, I hurt my hand then it was inflected when we boarded on cruise. I went to see the cruise’s doctor day by day. Finally, we arrived Vanuatu, we went to one of the secret island, there were an underwater post in 3 meters. Before, I dived the wreck, the US ship which the deepest point reached 60 meters. At last, my photographer and I walked back to the cruise as the taxi driver tried to charge us more money than usual…this was the Wonderland of Vanuatu.
I had a lot of memories about this place and the whole trip. And I loved to be an explorer. But I am sorry for those few years who suffered the trips with me, I knew that you might not be a crazy people like me…haha…but you need to work with me. Sorry! Please store this in your memory.
最近,聽到有一個電視的廣告節目,是關於移民往瓦努阿圖,說是世界上最快樂的國家,這勾起我少許回憶,早在 2007-08 年左右,在網上有個快樂星球指數的選舉,而瓦努阿圖名列首位,比芬蘭等公認最富的北歐國家還要優勝,這引起了我的興趣,決心想找一個方法去採訪這地方。或者,當時我的同事與上司都覺得我痴線,為了這麼一個「小」理由,幸運地最終找到了贊助,是郵輪公司的一條南太平洋航線。首站我留在澳洲悉尼附近的 blue Mountain。這旅程非常深刻,因為我與不懂泳術的女攝影師,竟然往 Canyoning 去(溪降),我還冒死跳落二十多米深的瀑布,當時我是不懂游泳的。最終手背受傷細菌感染仍上船去,每天見醫生。不過,到站瓦努阿圖時,仍然是去潛水及拍攝海底的郵筒去,我與攝影師此行印象深刻,我肯定她不會忘記,我們不甘被屈錢而由市中心徒步到碼頭這一幕。
我真的很感激,過去「被迫」與我工作的攝影師及夥伴,我知我是個很瘋癲的人,不過我是個有病的冒險家。我知道你不會忘記這些旅程,呵呵,當是回憶也不錯。
Hotel Art Nouveau – Freund aus Deutschland
Few years ago, when I worked for one of the magazine from HK, I traveled quite often, once or twice a month. But even I went to the same destination which I have been to before, I seldom stayed in the same place. I was quite happy to search for new. In those few years I visited Berlin for four times, but I stayed Hotel Art Nouveau for two times, which was also recommended by my colleague who stayed beforehand. Why? I guess you may agree with me, because of the host, the owner. He is a very friendly German with a nice artistic wife who came from Austria. They have a kind a love story which is easy to understand: opened a guest house because they wanted to build their nest fill with love. And they both loved travel around the world. So when they tried to find a place to settled down a bit, they bought some flats on a building. His wife designed the interior and he do his managing work. First when I came, they treated me like a friend and the following next time I backed, seems like visiting an old friend who lived Berlin.
Their guest house is perfectly quiet and in the very “west” berlin area, Savignyplatz. So if you have time to visit, please say a hello for me.
在過去於雜誌工作的幾年間,我經常出門,不過就算往同一地點去,也很少重覆住同一酒店,因為我很愛新鮮感。而這幾年來柏林有四次,然而卻有兩次入住同一間旅館Hotel Art Nouveau,有趣的是這家旅館是我一位同事介紹,他之前亦住過。為什麼我們都愛它?原因不是因為什麼設計與裝修,而是「人為」因素,就是這裡的老闆。他是為很親切有善的德國人,有位奧地利籍的藝術家老婆,是一個平凡的愛情故事,兩人築愛巢,然後買下物業作為居所也作為旅館,兩口子都愛周遊列國,他們仍間中外遊。無需多說,妻子當然是發揮所長,負責室內設計,老公做管理。當我第一次到訪時,他們已很熱情招呼我,而我再次回去時,感覺有如探朋友,一位居於柏林的朋友。
他們的旅館真的非常舒服,清靜,座落在很西面的柏林。如下次你有機會入住,請代我向他們問好!
Casa Camper always the best in town
I can never use a word to describe this boutique and stylish hotel which I always in my mind…Casa Camper…which I found the first one in Barcelona. Their design is even more crazy. The living room and bedroom separated into two rooms by a hotel corridor. But anyway I love their second one in Berlin more, just simply because I like Berlin. In Mitte, the city center, stand in the corner of the street. You may always enjoy a scene of bustle and excitement.
http://www.casacamper.com/berlin/default-de.html
難以用字詞去形容這間有個性的小精品酒店,而他經常在我的記憶裡,名字叫 Casa Camper,首間發現於巴塞隆拿。老實說,巴塞的 Casa 的設計更加 Crazy,睡房與客廳,竟然可以相隔一條酒店長廊,卻區分兩間房。但無論如何,我愛的是柏林的 Casa Camper,只因我比較愛柏林這城市,它位於市中心熱鬧的 Mitte 區,而你就可身處在最繁華之角落,透過玻璃窗,在寧靜的空間,看着鬧市的繁忙。


















